Hong Son loop


Mike had heard about the Hong Son loop from a friend, and decided that he wanted to do it. So we rented a 125 scooter in Chiang Mai and set aside 6 days to explore this northern part of Thailand. Our go at the loop consisted of 6 days, 600 km, 4 towns and 1864 turns.

Chiang Dao

We started the loop, leaving Chiang Mai, by going a bit out of our way and up to Chiang Dao. This little village is located at the bottom of a beautiful mountain. It felt really nice to get out to the countryside – everything was so quiet, – except for a lot of crowing roosters –  and the air felt really fresh after being in the city for so long. We stayed on a little farm/micro brewery.

We got there quite late in the evening and decided to head to the local tourist attraction before it closed. One of the things the town is known for is a network of 12 km of caves, some of whom contain shrines. We got a local guide to take the two of us around with a gas lamp. It was completely dark, and the caves just go on and on forever. We could have gotten lost so easily, and it would have been impossible to find your way out!

The village consisted of only two roads, one of which was filled up with foodstalls for the evening marked. We happily walked up and down, trying a little bit of everything.

The next morning, after being woken continously by crowing hens, we visited a local temple in the mountain side before setting off.

Contemplating the view

There was quite a lot of stairs to walk up, and the road had loads of mindfulness quotes on signs along the way. It was really peaceful and beautiful, almost no-one else was around. We both agree that Chiang Dao is one of the favourite places we have visited so far.


We got on the road to Pai, only stopping because Mike insisted on visiting the obligatory waterfall along the way.

Mike loves waterfalls

Everything was going really well, we had to go over the top of a really high mountain, the view was amazing and the road full of turns. Mike suddenly informs me that we’re almost out of petrol. We hadn’t driven past a petrol station in a long time. Luckily we were going downhill by then, or we wouldn’t have made it. After 30 min, at the foot of the mountain, we finally found petrol.

Pai is lovely, we stayed for two nights and crammed in as much as we could. So much nice food! The next morning we watched the sunrise over the Chinese village.


It was really really cold, and very very early, but pretty nice. Then we visited the white Buddha, the big tree, the memorial bridge and another waterfall.

White Buddha

We were going to watch the sunset at the canyon with some guys from the hostel, but we missed it. We stayed for a while and watched the stars instead. The canyon is really cool! We really enjoyed Pai and Mike especially wished we could have stayed longer.

Mae Hong Son

Next stop was Mae Hong Son. Again we drove over some beautiful mountains with really nice views. Outside town we stopped at the national park to visit the fish cave, Than Pla. The fish, in the carp family, are considered holy. We fed the fish with nuts and cabbage. They are really huge, and there’s loads of them!

Then we watched the sunset at Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu, the most famous pagoda, before we had dinner at the night market.

Mae Chem & Doi Inthanon 

This little village is the last stop before driving over Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain, and back to Chiang Mai. We didn’t realise we were there at first, the village is that small and average. We stayed in a nice homestay, and it was good to relax a little before the last day.

The last day we got up early and drove up the mountain. We were wearing all the clothes we had with us, and the higher we got the colder it got. At the top there are two beautiful pagodas built for the king and queen’s 60th birthdays and some nice gardens. The view was nice, but quite a lot of it was covered in clouds. The rest of the drive back was uneventful, and we caught our night train back to Bangkok.


Chiang Mai

We took the night train from the south back to Bangkok, which was surprisingly comfortable. The beds had soft mattresses and pillows and thick blankets, better than some of the hostels we’ve stayed in! We booked a night train for the next night,  but they didn’t have any more beds. We got to reclining seats in second class. It turned out to be a very uncomfortable night, we quickly learned that the nights in north Thailand are a lot colder than down south.

Chiang Mai is lovely, if very touristy. Lots of coffee shops and cafes. You also can’t turn a corner without seeing a temple or pagoda. The city has a pleasant atmosphere, much more relaxed than Bangkok if you ask me, although it’s still a bigg-ish city.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

This is one of the most famous temples in Chiang Mai, and it has a view over the city. We drove for a bit out of town, and up the hill. The road is very steep, and it was only barely that our scooter could manage. When we got there it was another steep walk to the top. The view was amazing and so was the temple, although full of other tourists. But we were happy that we picked it as one of the temples to spend some time in.

The grand canyon

Mike’s friend had tipped us off about this place before we went, it’s an old quarry 30 min outside town which has been turned into a waterpark. One of the main attractions was a really high jump that Mike was dying try. We got there an hour before closing, and Mike jumped twice from 7.5 metres. The place was really cool and we could have easily spent half a day there.

The Canyon with the jumping off point

Night bazaar

We love a good night marked, lots of cheap food and opportunities to try new things that we haven’t tried before. Chiang Mai has one of the biggest and most diverse markets we have been too, you could walk around there forever and quite easily get lost. Needless to say we ate a lot.

Ko Lanta

We took the boat about an hour from Railay to the island of Ko Lanta. The boat was filled with Swedish and Danish people, and we soon realised the same was true for the island. We got a cheap-ish hotel close to the beach and rented scooters. Ko Lanta is quite small and spread out, with hotels mainly on the west side of the island, by the beach. You could see all there is to see in two days, and we were planning on going to the islands in the east after that, but as they were still pretty rainy we stayed at Lanta a bit longer. Despite the scandis the island’s pretty quiet, and we found several beautiful beaches with almost noone on them.

Our highlights were:

Old town

The old town is on the south end of the island, and a lot more chilled than the other town in the north. It’s pretty much just one street by the ocean with lots of old buildings, small shops and restaurants. We had dinner here one evening at a restaurant on a platform that was stood on poles halfway over the ocean.

The lighthouse 

The lighthouse in the national park is said to be one of the places to see. The bay is very pretty, but when we were there the wind was very strong and we were quickly covered in sand after a few minutes on the beach. However the best part of the park is the monkeys roaming around looking for food. Ben was carrying a bag of snacks, and was quickly outnumbered by a pack of monkeys who got away with all the food. There are rangers in the park specifically to keep the monkeys away, but they couldn’t save him. Unfortunately Mike and I missed the whole thing.

The lighthouse
Monkey business


The four island tour and Ko Mook emerald cave


We went on a boat tour from the old town with four different stops which was amazing. On the two first stops we jumped in the water from the boat, and snorkeled around it. There was loads of fish, and the water was very clear. The third stop was the best. We had to put life vests on, and swum together into a cave. At one point it was completely dark, all we could see was the guide’s headlight in the distance. Then the tunnel opened up onto a perfect sandy, secluded beach. The water was very warm, and the sand was beautiful. It was made even better because it was a complete surprise, none of us knew that that’s where we were going!

Emerald cave

Krabi town & Railay beach

Mike rock climbing over Railay Beach. Conquering his fear of heights at 30 metres.

We were originally going to take the night train down to the south of Thailand, but due to severe flooding in the south the roads and rails were closed. We ended up getting a flight for £25 to Krabi. The day before we were due to fly, I checked our tickets and realised we’d booked them for the wrong month! Luckily we got half the money back.

When we got the the airport at Krabi town, we were told that there were no busses into town because the road was flooded. We were stranded at the airport, questioning our decision to go down south. But after a couple of hours the busses started running again.

Krabi highlights:

Tiger cave temple (no tigers but amazing views)

We rented scooters at the hotel and drove 30 min out of town to visit the temple. It’s called the tiger temple because it’s located in a cave where a tiger used to live. The temple was nice and there were lots of monkeys running around, but the main attraction was 1260 steps up to the top of the mountains. It took us quite a while to get up and we were all soaked in sweat, but it was totally worth it. The views were amazing, and you can see all of Krabi town and the coast.

Night market by the port

At night there’s a great night market in Krabi. The place to eat is by the port, where lots of little foodstalls set up shop, covering the pier in plastic chairs and tables. The food was great and super cheap.

Railay beach

The beach

Railay beach is only accessible from Krabi via boat. We missed the last boat for the day, but managed to hire a private one which took us to the beach as the sun was setting. We got there and realised that all the cheap beach huts we planned on staying in were at Tonsai beach right next to Railay. As the tide was in we couldn’t walk there, and had to get yet another boat to ferry us over. When we finally got there Mike and Ben and Stef found us some cheap huts. There was only electricity in the evening and only cold running water, but the huts were quite cool. In the morning we woke up  to lots of monkeys in the trees around us. In the evening down in hippie-ville there was always a fire show going on. We stayed there for 3 nights, and the others went rock climbing. It was fun until I got food poisoning, then I kind of wished that we had an indoor bathroom with a light.

Our hut


Bangkok marked the beginning and will also mark the end of our trip to Thailand (as we’re flying from here to Siem Reap on 02.02), as it does for many travellers.

Mike especially liked Bangkok, he says one of his favourite things is the many ways to get around, from tuktuks and scooter taxis to boats, busses, taxis and the skytrain. I found Bangkok with all the hustle and bustle quite hard work, where even getting a taxi somewhere requires 20 minutes, lots of looking at Google maps, and talking to at least six different taxi drivers.

We both really enjoyed visiting Khaosan Road at night, nibbling on a few sticks of meat, and watching the carnage unfold. All backpacker stereotypes can be found here, as well as scorpions on sticks, cocktails by the bucketloads (literally) and any kind of ping pong show your heart may desire.We also really enjoyed a visit to the rooftop bar Cloud 47 which shows Bangkok in all its big-city glory.

Mike and a bucket of Mai Tai on Khaosan Road

Our Bangkok highlights:

Wat Arun

The Temple of Dawn, Wat Arun, is one of the most iconic sights in Bangkok along the river. Unfortunately the main part of the temple was covered in scaffolding when we were there, but the temple still looks amazing. The park by the temple on the river is also very nice.

Ben and Mike and the back of Wat Arun

Taling Chang floating market 

On our first visit to Bangkok we stayed in an AirBnB a bit outside the town centre, which meant taking a taxi every time we were going somewhere. On the plus side, we lived quite close to a floating market which was really cool. There was loads of new and exiting food to try from the stalls and the boats, lots and lots of catfish in the river to feed, and mini turtles to admire. We also went on a little boat trip down the river to a local temple on a longtail boat.

Lumphini park 

Lumphini park is an incredible park in the centre of Bangkok, easy to reach with the skytrain. We spent a whole afternoon here, first relaxing by the lake, watching the turtles and spotting lots of 2 meter long giant lizards called water monitors. A lady shared her bread with us, and we fed the turtles and a massive school of catfish from the bridge, a proper feeding frenzy!

As the afternoon went on, the park filled up with people doing their evening exercise. Young and old were running laps around the park and exercising on the outdoors gym. At least 200 ladies and a few men partook in an aerobics class with 3 instructors in front, everyone was doing their thing and there was a great sense of community. At 6 o’clock the King’s anthem played, and the whole park froze, standing respectfully while it finished playing.

Experiencing Lumphini park in the evening was without doubt my favourite part of being in Bangkok, the atmosphere is amazing and the park is an incredible spot to catch a feeling of one of the great things the city has to offer.

Feeding frenzy!